At Milan Fashion Week, Sabato De Sarno brought sparkle to his second womenswear collection for Gucci, further enriching the fashion house’s evolving codes.
On the third day of Milan Fashion Week, the fashion enthusiasts braved the rain, traffic congestion, and a local transport strike, all in pursuit of the latest trends. By late afternoon, shows were running an hour behind schedule due to the challenges faced by the fleet of black sedans, shuttles, and taxis trying to keep up with the runway pace. However, Donatella Versace restored order by starting her evening show promptly on time.
GUCCI Fashion SPARKLES
Sabato De Sarno subtly infused his second Gucci womenswear collection with a touch of sparkle while continuing to shape the fashion house’s new aesthetic. The collection features seemingly simple silhouettes like belted coats, apron rompers, and plunging neck-line tunics that exude both sensuality and strength, showcasing glimpses of leg paired with the season’s latest equestrian boots that rise just above the knee.
Long outerwear pieces, layered over short-shorts and basic corsets, are adorned with sequins and crystal beading, creating an ombre effect. They seamlessly transition into sequined shifts, halter cocktail dresses, delicate slip dresses, and cozy knitwear.
The collection also embraces no-pants looks, emphasizing the elegance of mini peacoats, bombers, and knitwear, along with this season’s footwear, including platform variations of the signature loafers. Gucci’s new oxblood red hue serves as the anchor for a bold color palette featuring navy, mustard, olive green, and aubergine. One of the standout pieces is a striking wavy oxblood-and-black intarsia leather jacket.
The collection didn’t flaunt Gucci with bold logos and recognizable motifs; instead, it whispered the brand’s essence through what the show notes described as “a series of subtle rebellious acts.”
De Sarno promised details that could only be fully appreciated when worn — such as hidden buttoning in the back of coats “that envelops them in an embrace” — or seen up close, like a geometric heron concealed within a jacquard pattern.
In the closing ensemble, a deep slit in a long wool sheath allowed the model to stride confidently, echoing De Sarno’s own confidence.
Kirsten Dunst, Julia Garner, and Solange Knowles secured front row seats, joined by De Sarno’s parents, who were the first to rise for a standing ovation.
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VERSACE PUNK ROCKS
The Versace runway was infused with punk energy, evident in the pulsating music, the nostalgic black-and-red check patterns, and the edgy spiky hairstyles sported by the models.
Donatella Versace maintained an electrifying vibe with deep, revealing slits adorning long clingy dresses, mod high-neck mini dresses, and animal print bodysuits paired with matching tights. The collection showcased synchronicity with menswear through complementary leather, tweed, and leather looks for both men and women.
Versace favorite Gigi Hadid graced the runway in a fitted navy midi dress, accentuated by a sheer blouse with a sweetheart neckline.
SUNNEI’S RUMINATIONS
Sunnei’s runway show unfolded without a soundtrack; instead, the interior monologues of models reverberated over the sound system as they gracefully walked across custom carpets adorned with the designers’ signature stripes.
Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina’s latest collection showcased enveloping puffer coats with a golden sheen, soft knitwear, octopus-shaped hoods, and oversized denim combinations. The highlight of the collection was looks crafted from carpets produced onsite by the cc-tapis design company. Models shared introspective thoughts about their next plate of pasta, shrugged off untimely itches, and pondered the role of fashion amidst global conflicts.
